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群山之心,世外桃源!这样的岳西你见过吗?

2022-03-07 15:53:58   来源:安徽画报
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在牛草山尖等过一场日落,矗立的风车如连接天上的信号塔,巨物之下,觉知万事渺小不可提。

岳西,一座山连着另一座,一座山环抱另一座,人类聚集地为群山之心。

是的,不是别处,正是这里。

牛草山日出

The sunrise over Mt. Niucao

When waiting for a sunset atop Mt. Niucao, I feel the highly erected windmills are like signal towers connecting to the sky, thinking that all things on earth are too small to be mentioned in the universe.

In Yuexi, mountains are connected and embrace each other while the habitat of humans is amidst the mountains.

Yes, Yuexi is not elsewhere, but just here.

A county with five distinctive traits

在历史上,岳西县分属4县,大别山主脉延伸境内的多丛山脉,以北为霍山县、舒城县,以南为潜山县(今潜山市)、太湖县,这四县古时均属《禹贡》传说中的扬州之域。

而岳西这个名字,是因“新县区域,适居潜岳(指古南岳,即今天柱山)之西,即以岳西名之”。1936年元月,析潜山、太湖、霍山、舒城4县边境之地,组合成新的县。

至中华人民共和国成立后,岳西县仍属皖北行署安庆专区。1952年4月12日,皖北行署与皖南行署(省级)合并成立安徽省。1971年3月29日,安庆专区改称安庆地区。1979年2月27日,安庆地区改称安庆行署,岳西县隶属未变。

岳西位于大别山腹地、皖西南边陲,地跨长江、淮河两大流域,与湖北省接壤。现辖24个乡镇,是全省唯一一个集革命老区、贫困地区、纯山区、生态示范区、生态功能区“五区”于一体的县。

这份独一性,让皖西县城有着自己的发展道路。

岳武高速河图互通

The Yuexi-Wuhan Expressway interchange in Hetu

鸟瞰岳西县城

A bird's-eye view of Yuexi urban area

In history, Yuexi County belonged to four counties. Divided by the Duocong mountain range of the Dabie Mountains, the northern part belonged to Huoshan and Shucheng, and the southern part to Qianshan and Taihu. According to historic records, those four counties were all under the jurisdiction of Yangzhou Prefecture in ancient times.

Comparatively speaking, Yuexi is a young city. The name of the county was designated as Yuexi (west of Yue, literally) in a then document declaring the administrative division of the new county is to the west of Qianyue (Mt. Tianzhu today and Nanyue in ancient times) ".

After the founding of the People's Republic of China, Yuexi County belonged to Anqing Special Administrative Zone under the Northern Anhui Administrative Office until April 12, 1952 when the northern Anhui administrative region and the southern Anhui administrative region (both provincial-level administrative units) were incorporated into Anhui Province. On March 29, 1971, Anqing Special Administrative Zone was renamed Anqing Administrative Zone and on February 27, 1979, Anqing Administrative Zone was renamed Anqing Administrative Region (prefecture-level), during which and up to now, the administrative subordination of Yuexi has remained unchanged.

Located in the hinterland of the Dabie Mountains between the Yangtze River and the Huaihe River, Yuexi is in the most southwest part of Anhui and borders Hubei Province. Now it has 24 townships and towns under its jurisdiction and is the only county in Anhui known as an old revolutionary base area, a poverty-stricken area, a pure mountainous area, an ecological demonstration area, and an ecological functioning area.

This uniqueness enables this county in western Anhui to have its own development path.

A county with five distinctive trA county featuring mountains and watersaits

谈论岳西,绕不开的是它的山川,因为这是一个纯山区县城。

岳西境内冈峦起伏,千峰竞秀,万壑争流,是国家级生态示范区。岳西的自然资源非常丰富,森林覆盖率达到77.33%,动植物有2160多种。

岳西县平均海拔约600米,千米以上山峰达69座。这些山峰主要分布在天羊、青四、多丛这三条山脉上,三条山脉构成一个“大”字形山脊,成为多条河流的分水岭。

这里有大别山三大主峰之——天河尖,海拔1771.01米,也是安庆最高的山峰。由天河尖和羊角尖构成的天羊山脉,是岳西县的西北屏障。青四山脉则纵贯南北,拥有大家都熟悉的明堂山,是安庆著名的旅游景点。

如此高海拔山区,处处皆美景,境内的天妙公路,被誉为大别山里的“最美天路”,海拔1188米。自驾穿梭在天妙公路上,领略山岭寂静之美。

自山林起始,起伏逶迤,跨州连郡,天羊、青四、多丛三条山脉,不仅构成了岳西地形大体走势,而且是大别山重要的分水岭。青四山脉为大别山南坡小分水岭,它是长河、潜水的分水岭;多丛山脉为大别山东段主分水岭,其西北部属淮河流域,东北、东、南部地区属长江流域的巢湖、菜子湖、皖河水系。两大流域四条水系共有十条主要河流,河流流淌于崇山之中,遇悬崖则倾盆而下,奇美风景不可多得。

岳西县彩虹瀑布风光

A view of the Rainbow Waterfall in Yuexi

When talking about Yuexi, we have to mention its mountains and rivers, because it is a pure mountain county.

Thanks to its undulating land of hills, competing peaks and flowing gullies, Yuexi is honored as a national ecological demonstration area. The county is rich in natural resources with more than 2,160 kinds of faunal and floral species and its forest coverage rate is 75.55 percent.

The average altitude of the county is about 600 meters, with 69 peaks above 1,000 meters. These peaks are mainly distributed along the three mountain ranges of Tianyang, Qingsi and Duocong, forming a "five-line" connected ridge area that serves as the watershed of many rivers.

The highest peak Tianhejian (1771.01 meters) in the Dabie Mountains is here, which is also the highest peak in the whole of Anqing area and higher than the peak Baimajian. The two peaks are the highest parts of the Tianyang mountain range, serving as the northwest protective screen of Yuexi County. The Qingsi mountain range runs from the north to the south, where you can find Mt. Mingtang, a famous tourist attraction of Anqing.

岳西天妙公路

The Tianmiao-section highway in Yuexi

Such a high-altitude mountainous area boasts amazing scenic spots everywhere. The highway section in Mt. Tianmiao at an altitude of 1,188 meters is known as the "most beautiful mountainous drive" in the Dabie Mountains. A road trip along the drive can let you enjoy the tranquil enchantment of the mountains.

The three mountain ranges of Tianyang, Qingsi and Duocong, starting from mountain forests and meandering ups and downs across many counties, are not only the major watersheds of the Dabie Mountains, but also the composing factors of the general topographic trend of Yuexi County.

Qingsi mountain range, a small watershed on the south slope of the Dabie Mountains, is the watershed for Changhe River and Qianshui River; Duocong mountain range is the main watershed in the eastern part of the Dabie Mountains, its northwest belonging to the Huaihe River basin, and its northeast, east and south belonging to Chaohu Lake, Caizi Lake and the Wanhe River systems of the Yangtze River basin. In the two river basins are 10 major rivers in four river systems. The rivers flowing in high mountains and pouring down over cliffs create unique scenery rare in the world.

A county with revolutionary traditions

岳西所处的大别山,历来是兵家必争之地。占据大别山,东可控南京、西可击江汉。

早在1924年,岳西境内就有中国共产党的活动,1927年建立党的组织。土地革命时期,岳西是鄂豫皖革命根据地的重要组成部分,红34师在这里组建,红25军在这里驻扎,红11军、红27军在这里战斗,红28军在这里重建。

鲜血浸染过这片土地。战争年代,岳西牺牲的烈士和死难群众达4万人,占当时人口的四分之一,中共安徽省委首任书记王步文烈士就出生和战斗在岳西。大别山烈士陵园里,朱德总司令亲笔题写“革命烈士永垂不朽”。

大别山烈士陵园

Dabieshan Martyrs Cemetery

The Dabie Mountains where Yuexi is located has always been of great significance for strategists. If you occupy the Dabie Mountains, you can easily control Nanjing in the East and the Jianghan plain in the west.

初心与使命纪念馆

Original Aspiration and Mission Memorial Museum

As early as 1924, there were organized activities in Yuexi by the Communist Party of China. The party organization was established in 1927. During the Agrarian Revolution War, Yuexi was an important part of the revolutionary base area of Hubei, Henan and Anhui. The 34th division of the Red Army was founded here, the 25th army of the Red Army once stationed here, the 11th army and the 27th army of the Red Army once fought here, and the 28th army of the Red Army was reorganized here.

The blood of the revolutionary martyrs soaked the land of the county. During the revolutionary war, 40,000 martyrs and victims died in Yuexi, accounting for a quarter of the population at that time. Martyr Wang Buwen, the first secretary of the CPC Anhui Provincial Committee, was born and fought in Yuexi. When visiting Dabieshan Martyrs Cemetery, Commander in Chief Zhu De of the PLA personally inscribed "the revolutionary martyrs immortal".

A county that has vigorously shaken off poverty

山水滋养了这座小城。本来是没有城,有了水土和作物,就慢慢有了人,围绕着三条山脉,聚落就形成了、城市就出现了。

由于历史、自然等因素,岳西一直是安徽省以及大别山区29个国家级贫困县中贫困面积最大、贫困程度最深的县份之一。1985年被列为首批国家重点贫困县,2012年被列为大别山片区及国家扶贫开发工作重点县。2014年建档立卡贫困户36367户110473人,贫困村65个。岳西人民努力奋斗,2018年8月,正式退出国家贫困县。

岳西县城所在的小镇,叫做天堂镇,总有人来了不想离开。

岳西县天堂镇源泉异地扶贫搬迁点一角

A corner of the relocation site for poverty alleviation in Yuanquan, Tiantang Town, Yuexi

This small city is nourished by the land. Originally, there was no city. People appeared gradually when they found water and soil that can be used to grow crops. Along the three mountain ranges people gathered as birds, settlements were slowly formed and a small city appeared finally.

However, the late development caused the root of poverty of Yuexi. Until August 2018 when it was deleted from the list of the national poor countries thanks to the efforts of local people for so many years, it had always been one of the poorest counties in Anhui and among the 29 poorest counties in the Dabie Mountains due to historical and natural conditions. For instance, in 1985, it was listed as one of the first national poverty-stricken counties, and in 2012, it was listed as a national key county for poverty alleviation and development in the Dabie Mountains. In 2014, 36,367 households with a population of 110.473 were filed in poverty registration and 65 villages rated as poor villages.

岳西大力发展茭白产业助力脱贫和乡村振兴

Yuexi vigorously promotes white shoots (zizania latifolia) growing for poverty alleviation and rural revitalization

It happens that the town where the county seat is located is called "paradise" in literal translation. This is the Eden of some people who come and don't want to leave.

A county famous for tourism and local specialties

如今,随着道路的建设,拥有“山林泉瀑、奇花珍木、古寺石刻、峡谷山寨、革命纪念地”综合性旅游资源于一体的岳西,旅游业蒸蒸日上,明堂山、天峡湾、司空山……越来越多的人走进岳西,了解这片土地,也认识这片沃土之上生长的文化,比如岳西的稀有剧种岳西高腔,其是明万历年间,风靡全国的古青阳腔遗脉,形成已有四百多年历史。

如岳西桑皮纸,采用主产区为毛尖山乡地区的桑树皮为原料,经过30多道传统手工工艺制造而成的特种纸张至今已有1700多年历史,每一张纸,在这世上都是独一无二的作品。

特殊的气候和地形,让这里农产品风味独特,成为国家级生态示范区。境内自然资源丰富,岳西翠兰和茭白,以及众多山野产品成为来此旅游的伴手礼。一村一品,带走的是浸润当地多年风俗和文化的产物。

一蔬一食,一茶一盏,小城生活有温暖,冒着热气。

游客在大别山滑雪乐园体验滑雪

Tourists enjoying skiing at Dabieshan Ski Resort

岳西县天峡风景区杜鹃花盛开

Azaleas in full bloom in Tianxia Scenic Area, Yuexi County

Nowadays, with the pavement and improvement of roads, the tourism of Yuexi becomes prosperous, featuring mountains, forests, springs, waterfalls, rare flowers, precious trees, stone temples, stone carvings, canyons, mountainous villages, and revolutionary memorial sites. Mt. Mingtang, Tianxia Bay, Mt. Sikong and more have been made tourist attractions. More and more visitors come to Yuexi to appreciated this land and the culture growing on this fertile land. For example, the 400-year old Yuexi Gaoqiang, a rare drama form unique to the county, is the legacy of the ancient Qingyangqiang Opera that prevailed in the entire country during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty.

岳西高腔演出

Gaoqiang Opera in performance, Yuexi

Yuexi mulberry paper, for another example, is a kind of hand-made special paper using the bark of mulberry trees grown mainly in Maojianshan Township as the raw material and is produced through more than 30 traditional processes. The making of the paper has a history of more than 1,700 years and each piece of the paper is the one and only craftwork in the world.

岳西翠兰采摘

Tea-leaf picking in Yuexi for making Cuilan-brand tea

The special climate and geographic conditions offer unique flavors of agricultural products and has made the county a national ecological demonstration area. As Yuexi is rich in natural resources, Cuilan tea, white shoots (zizania latifolia in Yuexi), as well as many mountain products have become souvenirs for tourists visiting here. Take one product from each village, what you bring home will be the pieces of local customs and culture that have been deposited for so many years.

岳西桑皮纸制作

Mulberry paper in the making, Yuexi

A dish, a meal, a tea and a wine, all represent the warmth of life in a small town.

文字:孙婷

图片:储青余飞跃 吴岳生 高斌 周诚

采访支持:岳西县委宣传部

翻译:王冀皖

译审:Michelle Ncubé(加拿大)

编辑:刘润宇 冷子璇(实习)

来 源|安徽画报

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